Winterizing Your RV in Indiana: A Step-by-Step Checklist

In West Central Indiana, the first hard freeze can sneak in on a clear October night, long before the leaves finish falling. Water left in your RV's lines, pump, or water heater expands as it freezes, and that expansion splits PEX fittings, cracks valves, and ruins pumps. A careful winterization in the fall is the single best way to avoid a spring full of leaks.

Here is the order Mat follows, written so you can do it yourself or know what to expect when a tech does it for you.

Step 1: Gather what you need

• RV antifreeze rated for potable water systems (never automotive antifreeze)
• A water heater bypass kit if your RV does not already have one
• A pump converter kit or a short hose for pulling antifreeze into the pump
• An air compressor with a blowout plug, if you plan to blow out the lines
• Basic hand tools, gloves, and a flashlight

Step 2: Drain the fresh, gray, and black tanks

Dump and flush the black and gray tanks at a dump station, then open the low-point drains and the fresh tank drain. Leaving tanks partly full invites freeze damage to valves and termination fittings. Leave the valves open for a few minutes so everything drains completely, then close them.

Step 3: Drain and bypass the water heater

Turn the water heater off on both gas and electric and let it cool. Never drain a hot tank. Open the pressure relief valve on top to let air in, then remove the drain plug or anode rod at the bottom. Once it stops draining, set the bypass valves so antifreeze will not fill the tank. Filling a water heater with antifreeze wastes several gallons and does not protect anything that draining did not already protect.

Step 4: Blow out the lines, use antifreeze, or both

There are two common methods. Blowing out the lines with compressed air pushes most of the water out, but low spots can still hold a little. Pumping RV antifreeze through the system replaces water with something that will not freeze. Many owners in Indiana do both: blow out first, then follow with antifreeze for peace of mind.

If you blow out the lines, keep the air pressure modest. RV plumbing is not built for high pressure. Open one faucet at a time, hot and cold, until only air comes out. Do not forget the outdoor shower, the toilet valve, and any washer hookup.

To use antifreeze, connect the pump converter or suction hose to the jug and turn on the pump. Open each faucet, hot side then cold side, until you see pink. Flush the toilet until antifreeze shows in the bowl. Pour a cup or two down every drain so the P-traps are protected too.

Step 5: Batteries

Charge the batteries fully. Then either remove them and store them somewhere above freezing, or leave them in place on a proper maintainer with the battery disconnect off. A fully charged battery resists freezing far better than a drained one.

Step 6: Propane

Close the valves on your propane tanks or cylinders. If you have portable cylinders, many owners remove them and store them upright outdoors, never inside a garage or shed. Cover the regulator to keep insects and moisture out.

Step 7: Keep mice out

Rodents look for warm, dry spots in late fall, and an RV in a field or barn is perfect. Walk around the underside with a flashlight and look for gaps where plumbing, wiring, and propane lines pass through the floor. Seal small openings with a rodent-resistant material. Remove all food, including sealed packages, and clean crumbs out of cabinets and drawers.

Step 8: Close it up

Clean the refrigerator, prop the door open, and leave the vents cracked if your cover allows airflow. Check the roof and seals one more time before snow arrives. Small cracks are easier to fix in October than after a winter of freeze and thaw.

When to call a pro

If you are not sure where all your low-point drains are, if your RV has a washer, ice maker, or a complex manifold, or if you just want it done in one visit, a technician can handle it. It is also a good chance to have someone look over seals, batteries, and propane before the RV sits for months.

If you would rather have it done right without the guesswork, call or text Mat at (855) 949-6107. He comes to your home, campground, or storage lot.

Learn more: RV Preventive Maintenance, Inspections and General Troubleshooting